Pairing anything with artichokes is tough. However, Italian whites classically have masses of acidity and minerality that ease the chore. Certain grapes really rise to the occasion, like Vernaccia. Reds are near impossible between the acidity of the artichokes and the metallic response of seafood to red wine tannins. So, I’ll propose a bubbly as an alternative. Bubbles in wine act like tannins to a degree (they also give additional perceived acidity), and since you don’t need much of those tannin-like effects, these new-age, extra brut and saline Prosecco will do a very fine job.
Most Vernaccia, especially those of San Gimignano, are of a leaner and more minerally style. Both work with this dish between the acidic pop of the artichokes and the green of the parsley as well as the saline hints from the shrimp. Both of the wines I recommend here have a similar profile. The Le Calcinaie – throughout the vintages – seems slightly more fruit-driven and approachable, if that is what you prefer.
Prosecco is often thought of as a floral and frequently sweet wine, but the truth is that it is made in many different styles. (That even includes still Prosecco!) For this pasta, some of the newcomer Prosecco products are truly exciting, heavenly and well-suited to this dish. The two I recommend are – unusually – bottle-fermented, and the Malibran is left on its lees in bottle. So while the two have lots of crusty bread character, the Malibran is especially in that vein. All the better to pair with a Sunday Pasta!
Master of Wine (MW)
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