Wine pairings for Pappardelle alle Scorzette sul Ragu di Anatra al Ginepro
Rosso: Castello di Volognano 2008 Baccante (in Italy only!), Ronco delle Ginestre Vino da Tavola della Provincia di Forlì, Moschioni Pignolo
This dense and flavorful pasta begs for a substantial red. This pasta is aromatically complex, so the wine must be, too. Also, because the duck contributes hefty richness to this dish, the wine will need a judicious dollop of acidity. You will find this in the wine suggested by the chef that masterminded this week’s Sunday Pasta recipe. Chef Andrea likes the Castello di Volognano Baccante, a Merlot and Sangiovese blend from Tuscany. This wine isn’t imported to the US now, but the good news is there are many other delicious wines to fill-in until you travel to Italy on a wine treasure hunt!
Emilia-Romagna is replete with wines full of bright acidity to accompany this dish. The first bottling that springs to mind is the Ronco delle Ginestre Vino da Tavola della Provincia di Forlì. This Sangiovese di Romagna possesses feisty tannins and vigorous acidity that support its generous body. It is an oaked wine that remains savory (rather than leaning toward sweet baking spices like cinnamon and vanilla). I especially love this wine because the current vintage in the US is the 2004, meaning this wine is really starting to develop in the bottle, showing more than just primary fruit character and oak.
Another region packed with full-bodied reds bearing generous acidity is Friuli. My choice for this pasta is the highly age-worthy Moschioni Pignolo from Friuli. Like the Ronco delle Ginestre, this wine’s current release is older: 2003. This was a blazing hot vintage in Italy, so the wine is lavish in its rich fruit character. My last tasting notes remarked, “Liquid bing cherries!” The wine displays plenty of vitality thanks to its fresh acidity and structuring tannins.
Alternatively, if you happen to have any older Italian wines in your cellar, 10-15 years old for example, don’t shy away from popping their corks! They’ll surely be a brilliant compliment to this pasta.
Christy Canterbury, Master of Wine (MW)