Wine pairings for Lasagna ai Funghi e Tartufi
If Ed’s Sunday Pasta this week is sinful, your wine drinking can redeem you. Wine (red in particular) will unclog your arteries and it’s entirely fat free. In fact, this pasta is so unctuous, it almost can’t be forgiven unless it’s consumed with vini rossi, but I’ll give it a shot or three with some whites.
Amongst whites, there is surely no greater earthy, smoky combination than truffles and Campanian whites. These whites possess a mineral and slate-laden core that work magically with pasta dominated by the aromas of subterranean mushrooms. The top notes are often floral and always nuanced. Cantine del Taburno makes a classic example with brisk acidity while Ocone makes a richer style. Vinosia’s version is a bit less smoky and not as sultry as either of the other two – perhaps a better first-time wine for those new to Falanghina.
The reds of Campania carry a similar smokiness. Maffini’s Denazzano isn’t overly serious in flavors and isn’t too rigid in its tannin. However, Campania isn’t the only region making earthy Aglianico. Basilicata, a region found south and east of Campania, gives Campanian wines a good run for their character and their value-for-money. Bisceglia’s Terra di Vulcano offers greater richness on the palate and more framing structure. Elena Fucci, also from Vulture, crafts the most generous of the three I propose. Its generous bacon fat and pan dripping flavors are checked by vibrant acidity to fit this pasta’s vinous needs perfectly.
If you can’t find these Aglianicos or Falanghinas, try any Campanian white or red in your favorite local wine store. You’ll surely find a mineral undertone and earthy core in most bottles, just what you need to counterbalance this pasta’s truffled unctuousness.
Christy Canterbury, Master of Wine (MW)