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The above measures are a guide, but add or subtract to taste. Nanni used a food mill to purée canned tomatoes and remove the seeds – which are said to have a slightly bitter taste. I rarely use one and instead rely on a speedy blender. Sugar is a controversial addition. My grandmother preferred a slightly sweet sauce and so added it, citing the fact that canned tomatoes are more bitter than fresh ones. I rarely add it. She would not add it to sauces with meat, such as a ragú.