Sunday Pasta™: Tagliatelle con Radicchio e Speck
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When most people think of Germany, they think Autobahn, engineering, and Oktoberfest. I, however, think immediately of my favorite Teutonic Titwillow, Lili von Shtupp (as played by the immortal Madeline Kahn). She remains emblazoned on my mind when it comes to all things Germanic. It’s twue, perhaps crazy, but twue…
Which brings me to speck, a big favorite from Trentino Alto-Adige, the far northern province of Italy that has bounced back and forth between German, Austrian, and Italian control and culture over the centuries. Today, it’s officially Italian, even though Alto Adige is still called South Tyrol in English and the German language and influence are omnipresent.
Speck Alto Adige is protected with IGP status. Like prosciutto, it comes from the hind leg of the pig, but unlike prosciutto, which is salt cured on the bone, speck is deboned and then both salt cured (with juniper berries among other things) and then cold smoked. The result is a smoky, intensely flavorful ham.
Radicchio, a leafy chicory, also hails from the north — the famous long-leaf variety is from Treviso (Veneto) and the more spherical variety from Trentino. Since ancient times, radicchio is thought to have had medicinal quality, serving as a blood purifier or analgesic. (This may explain why so many people think it tastes like cough syrup.)
Like many bitter foods, radicchio mellows in intensity when cooked, especially with onion, white wine, and cream. For a more intense flavor, you can skip the cream, although it is a commonly added for a reason. The speck both competes with and complements the radicchio, but can be eliminated if you want to go vegetarian. Either way, it’s a perfect dish for a cool fall day. It’s twue. Really.
Ingredients
Instructions
Bring a large pot of salted water to boil for the pasta.
Remove the bottom core of the radicchio and slice it into medium sized strips. Cut the speck into bite-sized cubes or strips. Set aside.
Chop the onion and sauté it in the olive oil over medium heat until translucent. Add the speck and sauté until resolved and browned, careful not to overcook it. Add the radicchio and cook until it wilts. Add the wine and stir together until it evaporates. Then add the cream and salt and pepper to taste, and cook over for a few minutes until the sauce begins to reduce.
Cook the pasta until just shy of al dente, drain it and add to the radicchio mixture. Serve immediately with a sprinkle of Parmigiano.
Check out our wine pairings for Tagliatelle con Radicchio e Speck and our About post that gives a brief history behind the dish.
Buon Appetito!
Ed Garrubbo, Editor
